Thursday, December 30, 2010
Repurposed thin-client as a simple server
A while back, I aquired a Termtek TK-3350 thin-client for next to nothing. The computer came with a version of windows CE on a CF-card, which was mounted on a IDE-adapter card.
I wanted to see I could make a low-cost, low-power and silent server for simple stuff like game-serving and voice-chat.
Swapping the 64mb RAM with a roomy 512mb module, I did experiment with putting Linux onto a bigger 1gb CF-card I had, but eventually gave up. I did succesfully install a few light-weight distros onto it, but none that I liked. The ones I like wouldn't run, probably because of the odd hardware (a VIA C3-533MHz CPU and VIA chipset).
I needed more storrage, so I installed a 30 gb 2.5" HDD, drawing power direclty from a 5V rail I found. The yellow tape is Capton tape, heat-resistant and so on.
I installed MS Windows 2000 this last time, It worked out quite allright. I've ran it for several hours, and it gets no warmer than 48C. Since then, I've drilled two wholes in the chassy, and permanently mounted the HDD.
At maximum load it draws 25W, which i mainly the HDD. If I'd kept the CF rather than installing an HDD, it would probably have drawn less than 10W.
Chinese mini USB power adapter blows up
Monday, August 30, 2010
HTC Hero Docking station mod
Been a while since I've written anything, so I tought I'd do a short write-up of a mod I did today.
I was not happy with the ugly and bright blue LED (sooo 2009) on a HTC Hero docking station I picked up on ebay, I set out to dim that azure light-house, replacing it with a mellow crimson.
As this will sit on my night-stand, this was given top priority.
Popping the cover revealed a much simpler device than I expected, nothing more than a few wires, a mini-USB, a LED, and a resistor.
Prying away the LED, I simply snipped the LED and resistor off, leaving enough stub to solder on the replacement LED and resistor.
The original resistor was a 460 Ohm (1/8 W), but since blue LEDs in general require a higher voltage than red LEDs, I opted for a 1180 Ohm (1/4 W).
The only other thing I did was to add some shrink sleeving/wrapping. In this picture I was testing the mod before gluing the LED in place.
And there you have it, a nice and warm red glow that won't disburb me in the night.
I hope you've enjoyed reading about this simple mod just as much as I did doing it. Good night ;)
I was not happy with the ugly and bright blue LED (sooo 2009) on a HTC Hero docking station I picked up on ebay, I set out to dim that azure light-house, replacing it with a mellow crimson.
As this will sit on my night-stand, this was given top priority.
Popping the cover revealed a much simpler device than I expected, nothing more than a few wires, a mini-USB, a LED, and a resistor.
Prying away the LED, I simply snipped the LED and resistor off, leaving enough stub to solder on the replacement LED and resistor.
The original resistor was a 460 Ohm (1/8 W), but since blue LEDs in general require a higher voltage than red LEDs, I opted for a 1180 Ohm (1/4 W).
The only other thing I did was to add some shrink sleeving/wrapping. In this picture I was testing the mod before gluing the LED in place.
And there you have it, a nice and warm red glow that won't disburb me in the night.
I hope you've enjoyed reading about this simple mod just as much as I did doing it. Good night ;)
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Just another adapter III: LCD adapter - Final
Back from holls, and the components I neded to finish up this project was waiting for me in the mail. However, on closer inspection I found an airwire in the PCB! I could fix this with some trickery, but I decided not to, as it only affects back-light controll (you can see the missing trim-pot).
Some quick soldering of the contrast trim-pot and the missing 8x2 header, and the build was ready for some in-circuit testing. And the build was a success! Even in relativly simple builds like this, you really don't know before you turn it on.
Because of the air-wire, I won't post the schema and design unless requested.
Some quick soldering of the contrast trim-pot and the missing 8x2 header, and the build was ready for some in-circuit testing. And the build was a success! Even in relativly simple builds like this, you really don't know before you turn it on.
Because of the air-wire, I won't post the schema and design unless requested.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Just another adapter II
So, the PCB is now drilled and partially populated. The two 10-Pin headers for the STK500 are soldered on, as well as the single row (1x16) LCD connector and a LED. I keep the photo-resist until the very last moment, only then do I remove it on the spots I want to solder, using q-tip dipped in acetone. This way, the photo-resist protects the copper and keeping it from oxidising.
I ran out of single row (or double for that matter) female headers and I didn't have the right trim-pot either, so I will have to wait until after the holls to finish this one. Part are on order.Well, at least the LED power-indicator works.
Parts-list, schematics, and PCB to come when the build is done.
Friday, July 9, 2010
Just another adapter
I seem to be making allot of different adapters lately. This is the freshly made PCB/PWB for a LCD adapter for the STK500. More info to come later, that, and I'm trying out blogging from my Android phone :-D
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STK500 10-Pin I/O-Adapter
The STK500 development kit is excellent, and those 10-pin headers are great for making standard expansion boards for the headers. But sometimes all I need is quick access to a pin, for connecting the kit to a bread-board or similar. Nothing ready-made seemed to be available, so I made a quick-and-dirty adapter. Taking the standard 10-pin header and breaking them out into a single 1x10 standard 2.54mm row, adding only a LED for power indication.
PCB available for download soon...
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